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Contents 1

Chapter 1 Fibre,Yarn and Fabric 1

1.1 Text:What is a fibre 1

Reading material:Fine structure of fibre 8

1.2 Text:Natural cellulosic fibres 8

Reading material:Degradation of cellulose 16

1.3 Text:Natural protein fibres 17

Reading material:Wool farming 23

1.4 Text:Regenerated fibres 24

Reading material:Tencel 31

1.5 Text:Synthetic fibres 32

Reading material:Fibre lustre 38

1.6 Text:Yarn and fabric 39

Reading material:Primary and secondary motions of loom 46

Chapter 2 Pre-treatment Processes of Textiles 48

2.1 Text:Preparations before wet pre-treatment 48

Reading material:Water and textile processing 53

2.2 Text:Desizing 54

Reading material:Size reclamation 60

2.3 Text:Scouring 61

Reading material:Special scouring processes 68

2.4 Text:Bleaching 68

Reading material:Surfactants 76

2.5 Text:Mercerizing 77

Reading material:Degumming of silk 83

2.6 Text:Heat setting 84

Reading material:Heat-setting and steam-setting ofnylon 91

Chapter 3 Dyeing of Textiles 93

3.1 Text:Introduction to dyeing 93

Reading material:Dyeing equilibrium 99

3.2 Text:Classification of dyes 100

Reading material:Choice of dyes 106

3.3 Text:Dyeing machines 107

Reading material:Winch dyeing machine 113

3.4 Text:Dyeing of cellulose fabric 114

Reading material:Structure of cotton in relation to dyeing 120

3.5 Text:Dyeing of protein fabric 121

Reading material:Attributes of colour 126

3.6 Text:Dyeing of polyester fabric 127

3.7 Text:Dyeing of polyacrylic textiles 133

Reading material:Colour matching in textile 133

Reading material:Action of auxiliaries 138

Chapter 4 Printing of Textiles 140

4.1 Text:Introduction to printing 140

Reading material:Preparation of the fabric for printing 146

4.2 Text:Roller printing 147

Reading material:Ingredients of printing paste 153

4.3 Text:Screen printing 153

Reading material:Preparation of screen 159

4.4 Text:Transfer printing 160

Reading material:Other special printing techniques 165

4.5 Text:Direct printing with dyes 166

Reading material:Thickener 172

4.6 Text:Direct printing with pigments 173

Reading material:Designs 180

4.7 Text:Discharge and resist printing 180

Reading material:Post-print processes 186

Chapter 5 Finishing of Textiles 188

5.1 Text:Introduction to finishing 188

Reading material:Shrinkage control for wool 193

5.2 Text:Mechanical finishes 194

Reading material:Sueding or emerising 200

5.3 Text:Application of resin for finishing 201

Reading material:Dimethyloldihydroxyethylene-urea 207

5.4 Text:Water proofing and water repellent finishes 207

Reading material:Weighting of silk 213

5.5 Text:Flame retardant finish 213

Reading material:Shiffon finish 219

5.6 Text:Other special finishes 219

Reading material:Enzyme finishing 226

6.1 Text:Introduction to textile testing 227

Chapter 6 Textile Testing 227

Reading material:Terms used in sampling 233

6.2 Text:Testing of pre-treated fabric 234

Reading material:Precision and accuracy 239

6.3 Text:Measurement of coloured fabric 240

Reading material:Use of the grey scales 246

6.4 Text:Measurement of finished fabric 246

Reading material:Systematic error and random error 252

Appendix Finishing Terms and Definitions 253