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Chapter 1 Welcome Laowai!Pop Quiz 5

Seeing Red 7

China's Ancient Doorway 8

China—Ancient ＆ Ageless 9

The Legendary Chinese Jews 11

Xiamen on the Rise 12

Koxinga Pirate-Cum-Patriot 13

Crash ing the Gate 14

Putting the Dragon to Sleep 15

Fashionable Amoy 16

Gulangyu International I Settlement 17

Post Liberation Xiamen--Economic Power House 19

Geography 20

When in Rome...Wear Sandwich Bags! 22

Amoy's Average Monthly Temperatures 22

Temperature Conversion Chart 23

Ming Dynasty Tales of Henpecked Hans 23

Chapter 2 Getting Down to BusinessPiand Ice Cream 25

Xiamen—China's Mother Lode 27

Natural and Situational Assets 27

Social and Cultural Assets 29

Economic and Political Current Events 30

Growing,but Green! 31

The Sounds of Silence 32

Xiamen Municipal Government's Ten Commandments 33

Investment Opportunities 34

Ancient Tales of Business Conquest 38

Getting a Bead on Business 41

Chapter 3 Fun On-IslandXiamen Map Legend 43

Xiamen Map 44

Xiamen University 46

I Wanna Hold Your Hand 49

Xiamen University Map 50

Xiada Overseas Education College 51

Zhongshan Park 52

Feel the Force,Grasshopper! 53

10,000 Rock Garden 54

Back to the Garden 55

Nanputuo Temple 56

Freed Fish ＆ Fireworks 59

Huli Hill Fort,China's Doorstep 60

Chinese Opera 62

Hongshan Park 63

1st Church of China 63

Pew Perils ＆ Chinese Greetings 64

Qingjiao Ciji Palace 65

Classic Chinese Doctor Tales 66

Gulangyu Islet 67

Gulangyu Island Sites 69

Gulangyu Map 70

Gulangyu Architecture 71

Buses,Taxis ＆ other Trafficking 72

Main Bus Routes 72

Recreation on Island 76

Travel Services 78

Travel Supplement—the Arcane Art of Mini-Bussing 79

Chapter 4 Magical MinnanMinnan Golden Triangle Map 82

Jimei 83

Quanzhou 84

Melting Pot of Asia 85

Break Pots,Scuttle Boats 86

Quanzhou Sites 87

Mulberry Tree,Kaiyuan Temple 87

East ＆ West Pagodas 88

Spirit Mtn.,Old Stone Saint 88

The Lil'People,Water World 89

LuoYang Bridge,Quanzhou Hotels 90

Sisters-in-Law Tower 90

Anhai Manichaean Temple 91

God,not Man?Dadeng Island 92

Yang Amiao's Former Home 92

Minnan Village Cultural Landmark 92

Taoist-Confucian Temple 93

Hui'An Beauties'n Beaches 95

Putian,＆ Venice of China 97

Xianyou,Arts ＆ Crafts Center 98

Yongtai-5 Star Beauty! 100

Meizhou Island and Mazu 102

DeHua Pottery Paradise 103

Changtai River Resort 103

Zhangzhou-Narcissus City 104

Chapter 5 Western ＆ Northern FujianLongyan 106

Yongding—Well-Rounded Lifestyle 107

Shibi Village 108

Liancheng Bamboo,Bamboo Paper 109

Fuzhou 110

Lin Zexu 113

Northern Fujian 115

Mangdang Mountain and Wuyi Mountains 115

Yuhua Cave 116

Sandu'ao Island 117

Xiapu 117

Taimu Mountain 117

Liyu Creek 117

Jiulongji Waterfalls 117

The Mysterious She Folk 118

Fujian Handicrafts ＆ Shopping 118

Beyond Fujian,Tibet or Bust 122

A Yen for Yangshuo! 123

Exit Warning! 123

Slow Boat from China 124

Holiday Travel Warning 125

Plane Tickets 126

Airlines in Xiamen 127

Supplement—Love of Lacquer 128

Chapter 6 Festivals and Culture 130

Taboos 130

Monkey Business 131

Chinese New Year 131

Lantern Festival 132

National Day,Dragon Boat Fest. 133

Qingming Festival 134

Cold Food Festival 135

Mid-Autumn Festival 135

Moon Cake Gambling 135

Winter Festival 137

Sending off the Gods Day 137

On Weddings ＆ Funerals 137

Wedding Gifts 138

Till Death Do Us Marry 138

Filming a Buddhist Funeral 138

Yankee Doodle Dirge 139

Farewell Forever 139

Cultural Supplement-These are the Magi(Chinese gift-giving) 141

Chapter 7 Chinese Foodfest! 144

Chinese Cuisine 145

Beijing Cuisine 145

Sichuan Cuisine 146

Shanghai Cuisine 146

Cantonese Cuisine 146

Xiamen Cuisine 147

Froggy Food 148

Tea Time 149

Okakura's The Book of Tea 150

McChina 152

Cheeseburgers—Hold the Cheese 152

Our Favorite Eateries 153

Dining Tips 160

Cooking Xiamen Cuisine at Home! 161

Laowai Survival Recipes 162

Sweet on Tofu? 168

Mad about Oatmeal 169

Veggie Tips 170

In Season ＆ Out 171

Substitutions 172

Food ＆ Culture(or lack thereof) 173

Nights of the Round Table 174

Wits and Half-Wits 176

Chapter 8 Laowai Lexicon of Chinese Cuisine 177

Getting a Handle on Chinese Food 177

Pork ＆ Beef 178

Chicken 179

Duck,Eggs,＆ Other Fowl Play 180

Mutton,Misc.Carcasses,Seafood 181

Shrimp 182

Crab,Other Sea Creatures,Veggies 183

Tofu 184

Soups,On a Roll 185

Noodles 186

Fried Rice,Sweet Tooth,Survival 187

Chapter 9 Laowai Life! 188

When East Minces West 188

Bring From Home 189

Xiamen Shopping A to Z 189

Food Markets 200

Xiuxi—China's Siesta 203

Zhongshan Rd.Shopping 203

Home Sweet Home-Dahua 205

Xiamen Hotels 206

Supplement Half the Sky 208

Some Useful China Internet Links 211

Chapter 10 Mad About Mandarin 212

Shanghaid on Shibboleths 213

A Word's Worth 1,000 Pictures 213

Drawn to Chinese 214

A Modest Proposal 215

Chinese Ups and Downs 216

Titled Gentleman 217

Dictionaries,Diction,Deng Deng 217

Dr.Bill's unPatented Pinyin Guide 219

Chapter 11 Look Up 224

Up 224

Supplement—Lords of Opium 226

Supplement—ET Phone Home 240

Important Phone Numbers 240

Long Distance Calling—Country Codes ＆ Charges 242