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Chapter 1 Fibre,Yarn and Fabric 1

1.1 Text:What is a fibre 1

Reading material:Fine structure of fibre 6

1.2 Text:Natural cellulosic fibres 6

Reading material:Degradation of cellulose 12

1.3 Text:Natural protein fibres 12

Reading material:Wool farming 17

1.4 Text:Regenerated fibres 17

Reading material:Tencel 22

1.5 Text:Synthetic fibres 23

Reading material:Fibre lustre 28

1.6 Text:Yarn and fabric 29

Reading material:Primary and secondary motions of loom 34

Chapter 2 Pre-treatment Processes of Textiles 36

2.1 Text:Preparations before wet pre-treatment 36

Reading material:Water and textile processing 41

2.2 Text:Desizing 41

Reading material:Size reclamation 46

2.3 Text:Scouring 47

Reading material:Special scouring processes 53

2.4 Text:Bleaching 53

Reading material:Surfactants 59

2.5 Text:Mercerizing 60

Reading material:Degumming of silk 65

2.6 Text:Heat setting 66

Reading material:Heat-setting and steam-setting of nylon 72

Chapter 3 Dyeing of Textiles 73

3.1 Text:Introduction to dyeing 73

Reading material:Dyeing equilibrium 78

3.2 Text:Classification of dyes 78

Reading material:Attributes of colour 83

3.3 Text:Dyeing machines 83

Reading material:Pad dyeing machine 88

3.4 Text:Dyeing of cellulose fabric 89

Reading material:Structure of cotton in relation to dyeing 94

3.5 Text:Dyeing of protein fabric 95

Reading material:Colour kitchens 99

3.6 Text:Dyeing of polyester fabric 100

Reading material:DyeCoo delivers sustainable textiles with waterless dyeing 105

3.7 Text:Dyeing of polyacrylic textiles 108

Reading material:Action of auxiliaries 113

Chapter 4 Printing of Textiles 115

4.1 Text:Introduction to printing 115

Reading material:Preparation of the fabric for printing 120

4.2 Text:Roller printing 121

Reading material:Ingredients of printing paste 125

4.3 Text:Screen printing 125

Reading material:Preparation of screen 130

4.4 Text:Transfer printing 131

Reading material:Other special printing techniques 136

4.5 Text:Direct printing with dyes 136

Reading material:Digital ink-jet printing 141

4.6 Text:Direct printing with pigments 142

Reading material:Designs 148

4.7 Text:Discharge and resist printing 148

Reading material:Getting digital with textiles printing 153

Chapter 5 Finishing of Textiles 155

5.1 Text:Introduction to finishing 155

Reading material:Shrinkage control for wool 159

5.2 Text:Mechanical finishes 159

Reading material:Sueding or emerising 164

5.3 Text:Application of resin for finishing 165

Reading material:Dimethyloldihydroxyethylene-urea 170

5.4 Text:Water proofing and water repellent finishes 170

Reading material:Weighting of silk 174

5.5 Text:Flame retardant finish 175

Reading material:Towards multifunctional surfaces using the plasma-induced graft-polymerization(PIGP)process:Flame and waterproof cotton textiles 179

5.6 Text:Other special finishes 191

Reading material:Enzyme finishing 195

Chapter 6 Textile Testing 197

6.1 Text:Introduction to textile testing 197

Reading material:Terms used in sampling 201

6.2 Text:Testing of pre-treated fabric 202

Reading material:Precision and accuracy 206

6.3 Text:Measurement of coloured fabric 206

Reading material:Use of the grey scales 211

6.4 Text:Measurement of finished fabric 211

Reading material:Systematic error and random error 215

Appendix 1 Standard operating procedures for garment merchandising 216

Appendix 2 Vocabulary 219

Appendix 3 Phrases and Expressions 228